Terra Incognita: Stillpoint Lodge

Words Marco Barneveld  Photography Rene Koster  


Some places are simply magical. Stillpoint Lodge, situated on a cosy private peninsula in Halibut Cove, Alaska is just that. Magical. Combine unspoiled surroundings, a remote location, intense vistas and glow-in-the-dark waters with snuggly warm staff and that great Alaskan charm, and you’ve got a place so nice that you’ll never want to leave.

It’s two o’clock at night and I am standing on top of a yacht, about to jump into the dark, chilly Alaskan water of Halibut Cove. The leap is short, but feels like a slow-motion movie sequence. I can see myself from below flying through the air, the immaculately bright, unspoiled, starry night above me in all its glory. Then, when I hit the pitch black waters, something truly amazing happens: the water lights up into a bright, wavy blue.

The main lodge is a work of art with its cathedral wooden ceilings and monumental stone masonry

The splash sets off in the air, catapulting a light-blue ray of light upwards. With each swim stroke the water around my arms starts glowing. It’s so magical I don’t even notice the temperature. “Not too bad huh?” says owner JT Thurston who is splashing away as well. Welcome to Stillpoint Lodge. Probably the most ultimate nature hideaway you’ve never been to.

Situated on the other side of Kachemak Bay, seen from Homer, the only way to get here is by boat, floatplane or helicopter. In our case owner JT Thurston picked us up from Homer by boat and took us for a swift nightly ride over the bay. Stillpoint is a second-generation, family owned and operated lodge; Jim and Jan Thurston,  JT’s dad and mum, originally built it as an artist retreat centre.

Located on the high ground of a private peninsula, truly in the middle of nowhere, the main lodge is a work of art with its cathedral wooden ceilings and monumental stone masonry. Ten meticulously-curated cabins fan out from the lodge, sharing sea and shore with otters, seals and salmon.

A hot tub after a swim never felt so satisfying. If you have a bucket list, put Stillpoint Lodge on it. It’s an experience you’ll always cherish.